Design: Lindy van der Merwe/Various/Unknown
Text-Only Instructions copyright 2025 by Lindy van der Merwe
accessorigami.com
This model is likely to be a Sonobe variant of the striped variety.
If you are aware of any other source where this model or similar might be listed, please let me know so I can reference it under this heading.
Paper to be used: 6 squares of similar size; use large paper to practice with at first.
Thicker paper or thin cardstock is strongly recommended.
Note squares will also make nice, small models, but only use these when you are comfortable with the folding and assembly of these units.
Folding Level: Beginner
Steps:
Description:
The finished model is a closed, three-dimensional shape with 6 faces, 12 edges and 8 vertices or corners.
All 6 faces are congruent (similar) and shaped as squares.
This model has a very interesting pattern, composed of two diagonal bands running across each face of the cube. There are also two small triangles at the opposite ends of these bands. Lastly, there are two somewhat larger four-sided areas making up the opposite corners of each face.
The combination of bands and triangles reminds one a little of arrows, pointing in opposite directions.
Let's just say, this is a wonderfully tactile model to touch.
What also makes this cube nice to fold, is that the units have large, sturdy triangular flaps that tuck into small, yet prominent pockets on the outside face of each unit. This makes the assembly easy and intuitive for any beginner.
Very small cubes can be used as jewelry components.
These models also look beautiful displayed in a large, flat bowl or see-through jar or vase, or use them as party favors or hanging decorations.
To use as a box, small objects can be added before the last module is inserted.
Extra help:
You could try the following to help with assembling this model for the first time.
* You can use something small and heavy, or what I call a "Heavy Helper" and position it on top of the central unit once you have added two units to it. The Heavy Helper will serve to anchor the first three units so that you can work more easily on assembling the rest of the cube.
* Use glue tack, which is a clay-like temporary adhesive, to help until you can manage without it; no glue is needed to hold your cube together, but it is very helpful when you are learning how to construct modular objects; once you get to know how a model goes together, you will no longer need the glue tack.
PHASE 1: CREATING THE UNITS
You will be folding 6 similar units to form your cube.
It is recommended that you fold all 6 pieces before attempting Phase 3, which will explain how to fit the pieces together to form the finished model.
If using two-sided origami paper, lay your paper with the patterned or colored side down before starting to fold.
Step 1
Place a square down with its edges to the left and right, top and bottom.
Step 2
Fold the top edge down to meet the bottom edge to form a horizontal center crease line.
Crease and unfold.
Step 3
Now fold the top and bottom edges in to meet the horizontal center crease line.
Crease and leave folded.
You will have a figure with an upper and a lower rectangular flap meeting each other along the horizontal center line.
Step 4
Take the raw edges that meet in the middle and fold them back to meet the now folded top and bottom edges.
So, you will now have a rectangle with a thin three-layered band on the top and another similar band at the bottom.
Step 5
Next, fold the top left corner, all the layers, diagonally down to the right as far as it will go. It will line up with the bottom edge of the paper and form a triangle on the left side of the unit.
Take care with the left corner when making this fold, ensuring that the band folds over and settles neatly inside the corner flap.
Crease well and leave folded.
Step 6
Repeat this fold with the bottom right corner of the rectangle, but in the opposite direction. There will now be 2 triangles that have formed next to each other, pointing in opposite directions.
The outline of the figure will be a long, four-sided shape, or to be more precise, a parallelogram.
Step 7
Unfold the 2 triangles so you have the rectangle again.
Step 8
Focus on the two bands again, specifically the bottom left and top right corners of the rectangle. Notice that previous folds have
created tiny diagonal valley creases at these corners.
We need to reverse the valley creases to make mountain folds for each of the two tiny corners in order to hide them within the layers of the paper.
Once folded, it should look as if two small corners are now missing on opposite ends of the top and bottom bands.
Step 9
Refold the large left triangle from Step 5 again, but now tuck it in under the bottom band of the shape.
Do the same with the right triangle, tucking it in under the band at the top of the unit.
Your unit has now been "locked" securely, so it will stay closed.
Important: Always start to fold your large corners in the same way; in this case, the top left and bottom right corners. If you make a modular model and one or more of the units are created with the opposite corners folded in, the units will not fit together.
Step 10
Flip the shape over sideways to reveal a smooth surface on the other side.
Also, orient the figure so that one of its long sides is nearest you. The unit should be lying in a straight horizontal line.
Explanation
With the unit in this position, you should be able to identify the following parts:
(a) Central square: Firstly, there will be a central square area, which won't have clear edges, but you can mentally keep this central area in mind.
(B) The Points or Flaps: With the central square placed straight in relation to the edge of the table, you will have a triangular flap on the left, with its pointy end nearest you. On the right, there will be a similar flap, but this one will have its point furthest away from you.
Put in another way, the left triangle will seem to slope downwards from the left side of the central square while the right triangle will seem to slope upwards from the right side of the central square.
Step 11
Fold the left corner straight over to the right and the right corner straight over to the left so the bases of the triangles meet each other diagonally across the square.
Make sure that all 4 edges of your square are straight and really creased well at this point. Press extra hard since firm creases will make the assembly of the model much easier.
Step 12
Gently unfold the two flaps from the last step halfway and set aside.
PHASE 2: FOLD MORE SIMILAR UNITS
Repeat steps 1 to 12 5 more times so you have 6 similarly shaped units to work with.
Make sure you follow the instructions for all the squares precisely since all units should be alike in order for the modular pieces to fit.
PHASE 3: ASSEMBLING YOUR MODEL
If you have experience with the assembly of Sonobe type structures you will be able to assemble this cube by using the well-known method where a half-cube is created and then three units added to form the cube.
Otherwise, you may follow the alternative method below.
Explanation:
First look at your folded unit. It has a square with two flaps that seem to point in opposite directions. The square itself has a smooth surface on one side, but two tiny triangular pockets have been created on the outside. These pockets are where you will be inserting the flaps of the units of the cube.
The smooth sides of the squares will thus be hidden on the inside of the model while the points will fit into the pockets on the outside of the cube.
Don't be afraid to use a fingernail to open the pockets, which will be the only two tiny triangles on the face of each unit.
Step 14
Start by placing one unit down with its flaps at the top and bottom. The square part of the model will lie flat while the flaps will point towards the ceiling.
The smooth side of the central square will be facing up, so make sure the side with the pockets is facing the table.
Step 15
Now take two more units, place them on the left and right of the first one. The two on either side should have their flaps out to the left and right, also with the side with the pockets facing the table.
Step 16
From hereon, you might have to pick up the model in order to assemble it. Don't be afraid to turn it during the assembly. You can lightly hold it in your hand. The more units you add, the better the cube will hold itself together.
So, lift the first unit from the table and insert the point of the left unit, into the tiny pocket you will find at the top right corner on the back of the first unit.
Make sure you slide the point of each flap into the tiny corner pocket and not into the slit that is laying diagonally across the unit.
Don't worry too much if the points slip out of the tiny pockets during the assembly. As you add more units, the points should start to behave themselves better.
Step 17
Next, take the right unit and insert its point in a similar way into the pocket at the back of the first unit.
After you have connected the first 3 units you will have a loose structure with many points just hanging around. Don't panic at this stage. It might now be time to call in the assistance of your heavy helper object.
Place the heavy helper on top of the first or center unit. It should anchor the three units for the next steps.
Step 18
Place the next two units above and below the first unit with their flaps pointing left and right.
You will notice that there are still two points open at the top and bottom of unit 1.
Step 19
Insert the top flap from unit 1 into the tiny pocket at the back of unit 4.
Step 20
Similarly, insert the bottom flap of unit 1 into the tiny pocket at the back of unit 5.
You now have 5 units connected loosely, still with lots of unattached flaps, which will be dealt with next when the sides of the cube are completed.
Step 21
Before tucking in the sides, gently pull all 4 loose flaps to the outside of the cube so you will be able to get hold of them. There should be no loose points or flaps when the cube is completed.
Step 22
Start on the left side and bring unit 2 into an upright position if it is still laying flat.
Starting with the flap nearest you, tuck it into the pocket that will be at the back of unit 2.
Still working on the left side of the cube, do the same with the flap furthest away from you.
The left side of the cube will now be fully joined and should stay upright
Step 23
Now do the same steps on the right side of the cube.
Once done, you will have a five-sided shape with only two flaps still standing up and unconnected.
Step 24
Complete the assembly by adding the last unit, inserting its points into the sides of the cube in the same way you did before.
It is helpful to first drape the unit so its flaps hang over the sides of the cube; then you can tuck in the point, which should already be in place near their respective tiny pockets.
Step 25
Lastly, take the two flaps left unattached and tuck them into their slots that you will find on the last, top unit of the cube.
Step 26
Gently press the corners and sides into a final secure, symmetrical cube shape and enjoy.
Making origami accessible through text-based instructions.
For non-commercial use only.
Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, May 2025
This text copyright 2025 by accessorigami.com
Do the same with the large triangle on the right, formed in Step 6, tucking it in under the top band of the figure.
Make sure your tiny triangles are still folded and tucked in neatly after these folds.
Comments
Post a Comment