Credits and Resources
Design: Lindy van der Merwe/Unknown/Traditional
Text-Only Instructions - Copyright 2025 by Lindy van der Merwe
accessorigami.com
Paper to be used: 12 squares of similar size; use large paper to practice with at first.
Thicker paper or thin card stock is strongly recommended.
Folding level: Easy/Beginner
Steps: 20
Description: This is a modular origami piece, meaning that it is made up of folded units, which are fitted together to form the finished model.
The model is a three-dimensional closed six-sided cube or dice. It is created by first folding and then combining very simple units, each made up of two squares and then assembling these units using a method similar to that used for the Jackson Cube.
The cube will show a line or slit on each face that will divide the face in half. If two colors are used, when units are assembled, a pleasing pattern can be created.
Although the model itself might seem not to be that sturdy, it holds well together and will withstand light use.
Remarks:
This is a great project for those who would like to start making models using modular origami.
It attempts to introduce the basic concepts, methods and phases of folding and assembling a modular origami project.
The units are fairly easy to fold and assembly is done using a straight, sliding motion.
To use as a box, small objects can be added before the last module is inserted.
Extra help:
You could try the following to help with assembling this model for the first time.
* You can use something small and heavy, or what I call a "Heavy Helper" and position it on top of the central unit once you have added two units to it. The Heavy Helper will serve to anchor the first three units so that you can work more easily on assembling the rest of the cube.
* Use glue tack, a temporary clay-like adhesive, to help until you can manage without it; no glue is needed to hold your cube together, but it is very helpful when you are learning how to construct modular objects; once you get to know how a model goes together, you will no longer need the glue tack.
* You could ask a human to help you hold a unit or two in place.
PHASE 1 A and B: CREATING AND COMBINING THE UNITS
A. Creating 12 basic units:
We will first create 12 basic units.
If using two-sided origami paper, lay your paper with the patterned or colored side down before starting to fold.
Note: All folds should be made as valley folds.
Step 1
Place a square down with its edges on the left and right, top and bottom.
Step 2
Fold the bottom edge up to meet the top edge. Crease and unfold.
Step 3
Fold the bottom edge up to meet the center horizontal crease. Crease and leave folded.
Step 4
Flip the two-layered rectangle you have created away from you and over on itself.
Result: You will now have a rectangle, half the height of your starting square, with the bottom half consisting of three layers and a top half made up of one layer of paper.
Step 5
Turn the model over sideways so you have a smooth surface.
Step 6
Fold the left edge over to meet the right. Crease and then unfold.
Step 7
Fold both edges in to meet along the center vertical crease line.
Unfold halfway to form left and right flaps that stand at a 90 degree angle in relation to the main square of the unit.
This completes the basic folded unit.
Set aside.
Step 8
Repeat the steps above 11 more times so you have 12 similarly shaped units.
B. Combining units:
We will now combine two units.
Step 9
Pick up two units. Holding one in each hand, turn the pieces so that the central squares are facing you. The two flaps of each unit should be facing the table and the unfolded, raw edges of the two units should touch each other.
Step 10
While gently bending the folded flaps of the units so they are almost straight or unfolded, slide the right unit inside the left as far as possible. You would like for the folded halves of the units to meet.
The raw edge of the left unit will now be nearest the table, while the raw edge of the right unit will slide all the way into the folded part of the left unit.
Step 11
Let go of the flaps so they will return to their 90 degree folded angle.
Check that your units fit together along the center line and that the edges of the flaps are aligned at the top and bottom of the unit when it is straightened.
Step 12
Repeat with the rest of the folded units so you will have 6 combined units.
Explanation:
First look at your folded unit. It has a central square with a flap on two sides. It resembles a table or desk that is lying upside-down.
Make sure you can identify the central square as the large, flat area of each unit. The square will be smooth on its inside and on the outside it will be divided in half by a line where the two units meet.
The flaps of each unit are opposite each other and rectangular in shape. They are half the size of the central square. They are also divided in half by the same line as you have on the central square.
In the instructions that follow, you will be working with, on the one hand, the central square and, on the other, what we have termed the two flaps of each unit.
All the loose flaps of the units should stand up at a 90 degree angle to the central square, since this is how your cube will be formed into a three-dimensional shape.
Keep in mind that each central square will make up a side of the cube. So, when assembling the model, remember that the central squares should always be on the outside with the flaps facing inwards toward the inside of the model.
PHASE 2: ASSEMBLY
Step 13
Placement and Naming:
It is important to orient each unit exactly as directed. Also, do not turn your model while assembling it as the placement of each unit is described in detail and in order.
13.1 Make sure all 6 units are placed with their smooth, central squares facing the table and their flaps pointing up in the air. Once this has been done, while keeping them face down, set one unit aside for the moment and move the remaining 5 units into a cross formation in front of you on a table as follows:
13.2 Place a unit at the center, mentally naming it as unit 1 or the bottom panel of your cube. Bottom here refers to the side of the dice that is facing the table.
Important: The flaps of unit 1 should be at the top and bottom.
13.3 Then place another unit on the left, mentally numbering it unit 2, followed by a third unit on the right of the first unit, mentally numbering it unit 3.
So, you will have three units in a row now, numbered 2 on the left, 1 at the center and 3 on the right.
Important: Make sure that the 2 units on the left and right have their flaps at the left and right.
13.4 Next, you will place a fourth unit above unit 1 and a fifth below unit 1.
Important: The flaps of these units should also be on the left and right.
13.5
Explanation
Your cross formation will now be complete with the 3 units from left to right and the two you have just added at the top and bottom of unit 1, the central unit.
All will still be with their central squares flat on the table and with the loose flaps arranged as described above.
Now think of your cube as a box with 6 sides. Consider that unit 1 is the panel touching the table, unit 2 and 3 will form the left and right sides of your cube. Units 4 and 5 will form the back and front and the 6th unit will form the top or lid of the cube.
Step 14
Start with unit 1 The square part of the model will lie flat while the flaps will point towards the ceiling.
Hold it in place or place something heavy, the heavy helper, down on top of the central square to keep the paper in place.
Step 15
Take unit 2, on the left and tilt it over to the right, placing its right flap onto the central square of unit 1, but let it cover only half of the central square.
Lift the heavy helper only on the left when you do this; then let it down so it can keep the paper in place for you.
Unit 2 is now upright, like a wall. Its bottom flap is lying flat on unit 1 and its top flap is hanging in the air. You can bend it a little away from the central square for the moment.
Step 16
Take unit 3, on the right and tilt it over to the left, placing its left flap onto the central square of unit 1, but let it cover only half of the central square.
Lift the heavy helper only on the right when you do this; then let it down so it can keep the paper in place for you.
Unit 3 is now upright, like a wall. Its bottom flap is lying flat on unit 1 and its top flap is hanging in the air. You can bend it a little away from the central square for the moment.
The flaps of the left and right units will meet each other and both will lie flat on top of unit 1, on the central square.
You will now have 3 sides or squares loosely in place, namely the bottom, left and right panels of the cube with the helper securing them at the bottom.
Step 17
Take unit 4 that will form the back panel of the cube. Tilt it toward you and slide it in from the side furthest away from you with the flaps on the inside of the two walls you have already formed.
The back unit will come to rest and be stopped against the flap of the central square.
You can, at this point, gently fold the left and right flaps that are hanging in the air over the flaps of unit 4 to keep it more or less in place. It won't be very secure yet, but it should help you along.
Alternatively, you can place something heavy and solid against the back of unit 4 to hold it in place.
Step 18
Insert unit 5 from the side nearest you in the same way, also sliding its flaps on the inside of the side walls.
The unit will come to rest against the flap of the first, central unit as well.
Unit 5 will also slide in underneath the left and right flaps mentioned in the previous step, so your cube will have more structure now.
Step 19
It is now time to gently press the sides of the cube together so the panels will rest snug against each other.
Pay special attention to the left and right top edges and check all faces of the cube are smooth with all the flaps on the inside of the box.
Once this has been done, you can gently remove your heavy helper.
This is also the time to place something inside the cube if you would like to use it as a container.
If the left and right flaps have been pushed down against the sides of the cube, gently coax them so they will come up to cover the object you put inside. These flaps should sort of hang in the air or form a fake lid at this point, since, in this way, they will help to keep the last unit of the cube in place.
Step 20
Pick up the last unit and place it on the only side that is still open, the top of the cube. First place the unit so the flaps hang on the outside, over the back and front of the cube.
Once you have it oriented, tuck the flaps in on the inside of the cube, under the left and right flaps that are already there.
Start with the flap nearest you and then work with the flap furthest away from you. Don't worry too much about where the flaps of this last unit go. As long as it is tucked or slid in securely to the inside of the cube, all should hold together now. If your cube seems not to want to close, it is likely that the flaps on the inside are preventing this, so you can try to gently insert a finger and push the flaps against the sides of the cube, making it possible for the last two flaps to find space to slip inside.
Try to keep the rest of the panels in place as you do this last step. Once done, you will find the cube will be completed.
Making origami accessible through text instructions.
For non-commercial use only.
Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe - May 2025
This text copyright 2025 by accessorigami.com
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