Credits and Resources
Text-Only Instructions - Copyright 2025 by Lindy van der Merwe
accessorigami.com
Various sites show how to fold this famous cube by Shuzo Fujimoto.
For visual/video instructions, go to
origami-instructions.com Fujimoto Cube
With thankful acknowledgement to Anette Carr and Reiner Delgado for testing and for submitting editing suggestions and alternative folding methods; to Elrina van der Merwe for her practical help and to Michal Kosmulski for his kind and patient explanations via email, some of which is quoted as part of the text below.
Michal has spent considerable time and effort in making the work of Fujimoto accessible and available online and to more people in general.
You can read his article here.
Shuzo Fujimoto - First Origami Engineer
Paper to be used: A square of around 15 x 15 cm or larger - thicker paper or thin card stock is strongly recommended. You can try to use copy or printer paper or even braille paper should work well for this cube.
Folding level: Intermediate
Remarks:
It is suggested you read this entire tutorial before starting to fold, since Step 4 is optional and you will be able to choose between two different methods of folding in Part 2 below.
If lightly wrapped with ribbon, this cube makes a nice hanging decoration.
To use as a box, small objects can be added before the cube is closed.
Description
The Fujimoto Cube, undoubtedly one of Shuzo Fujimoto's most famous models, is considered by many to be a work of genius. The finished model is a regular cube with six faces that are all the same size. However, two opposite faces of this cube feature a beautiful motif, made up of four triangles that are formed into an overlapping, spiral pattern. The remaining four faces of the cube are smooth. This remarkable model is folded with a single sheet of paper.
The folding process includes making a grid, adding diagonal folds and then using a sliding move to transform or collapse the structure into the required shape.
The tutorial is divided into three parts:
Part 1 explains all the pre-creases to be made in detail.
Please note that Step 4 is optional; if you have mentally numbered your grid and feel that your creases are strong and accurate enough after completing Steps 1, 2 and 3, simply skip to Part 2.
In Part 2, Alternative 1 describes the sliding or collapsing step used by most people as can be seen in the video mentioned above. However, you could also try out Alternative 2, which we will call The Twist for the purposes of this tutorial, which could be described as a more "hands-on" approach, where the cube is formed "manually", or "square by square".
Part 3 explains how to close the cube.
PART 1 – PRE-CREASES
Making strong and accurate pre-creases is especially important for this model, since it relies on various creases to fold in a certain way for the folding process to be successful.
Step 1 - THE GRID
We will first form a grid of 16 squares, which will all be formed by making vertical and horizontal valley folds.
You can perform these pre-creases in any way you prefer, as long as all of them end up being valley folds on the side of the paper you have chosen for the inside of the cube.
So, the side you want for the outside of the cube should be facing down when you start.
You will position the square with its edges at the top and bottom and on the left and right.
Perhaps the easiest and most accurate way would be to make a book fold, followed by a cupboard fold. Unfold the square and rotate it 90 degrees. Then repeat the book and cupboard folds. Unfold.
Some people find it easier to fold an edge away from them, so you can just as well fold the top and bottom edges of the paper instead of folding from left to right.
Result: You should end up with a square that has been divided into 16 small squares or with the crease lines forming a 4 by 4 grid.
Step 2 - THE DIAGONALS
With your square flat and one of its edges nearest you, mentally divide your square into four rows, numbering them from one at the top to four at the bottom.
•
We are going to add diagonal creases in row 2 and row 4.
•
Like the creases of the grid, the diagonal lines should also be valley creases, so make sure your paper is not turned over after Step 1.
•
Each small block should have its own crease that should run from the top left corner diagonally down to the bottom right corner.
•
This means there will be eight diagonal creases in total, 4 in row 2 and 4 in row 4.
•
If you have not performed isolated folds like these before, take your time to practice so you can get used to manipulating the paper. For some models it won't matter if you make "extra" creases, but in this case it is important to have creases only where indicated.
You may prefer to keep the sheet flat on the table, or it may be easier to fold it in the air. Don't hesitate to turn the sheet in any orientation that will allow you to make the folds in the right direction. Be especially careful with the corners of the diagonal folds. They should not extend beyond the corners of the square you are working with.
•
If your grid is accurate, with strong creases, this will make folding the diagonals easier as well.
The diagonal creases across the inner squares will be more difficult to make. Just be patient and you will find ways to manipulate the paper in these areas.
It may be helpful if you can strengthen your vertical and horizontal creases while you are forming your diagonal creases. One way to do this is to lift your paper up at a 90 degree angle and to pinch along the vertical and horizontal edges of each block once you have formed a diagonal. In this way you will be able to strengthen each fold separately, while making sure that all your valley creases are reinforced and that your corners are more accurate.
Result: Your open, flat square should now have the following crease pattern:
Row 1 (furthest away from you) has 4 squares;
Row 2 has 8 small triangles.
Row 3 has 4 squares again;
Row 4 has 8 triangles again.
Note that, from this point onwards, we will not be making any further creases in order to construct our cube. Instead, we will be manipulating our pre-creases to complete our cube.
Step 3 - NUMBERING AND ORIENTATION
In this step, we need to mentally allocate a number for each of the squares on our grid as follows:
The top row or row 1 will be numbered squares 1 to 4 from left to right;
Row 2 is made up of squares 5 to 8 with each square comprising 2 triangles formed by a diagonal crease running from the top left to the bottom right;
Row 3 contains squares 9 to 12; and
Row 4 is made up of squares 13 to 16 with each square comprising 2 triangles formed by a diagonal crease running from the top left to the bottom right.
Put another way, Row 1 starts with Square 1, Row 2 starts with Square 5, Row 3 starts with Square 9 and Row 4 starts with Square 13.
These numbers will be referred to in the rest of this tutorial.
STEP 4 - STRENGTHENING VERTICAL AND DIAGONAL CREASES (Optional)
This step has three purposes: On the one hand it may help you to combine the vertical and diagonal creases in order to strengthen them even more, coaxing the creases into specific directions.
On the other, Steps 4.1 and 4.2 below will give you an idea as to how the overlapping pattern will form and feel like on two opposite faces of the cube.
Thirdly, you will have a chance to get used to the numbering and terms used for the actual formation of the cube in Part 2.
4.1 Row 4
We will first be working with Squares 13 to 16, in row 4, the row nearest us, starting on the left and moving to the right.
(A) Bring the row of four squares into an upright position along the first horizontal crease line from the bottom.
(B) Holding the paper upright, at 90 degrees in relation to the table, fold Square 13 in half, away from you, along the existing diagonal line.
Result: Square 13 will now be a double layer triangle.
(C) Next, take the Square 13 double layer triangle and gently push it to the right so it will tilt over, bringing the entire left edge of the model with it. It will tilt along the first vertical fold from the left.
Result: The Square 13 double layer triangle will move in behind Square 14, which will also fold into a double layer triangle.
(D) Now, holding both the two layer triangles together, since they are now in the same square, perform the same tilting action once more to the right. This time, both the folded triangles on the left will tilt over to the right and slide in behind Square 15, that will, in turn, fold into a third double layer triangle, starting to form the spiral or overlapping shape mentioned earlier.
Each time your entire long square will also fold over to the right, along the vertical crease lines of the model, forming what can be described as a square tube.
(E) Tilt the 3 double layer triangles to the right for the last time, bringing the entire shape with you. The three folded triangles should move in behind Square 16, that will itself collapse into a double layer triangle, that will be sloping upwards to the right into a point that will face the ceiling.
Result: The entire shape should now be a long, square tube. Its one end will be closed nearest you and the raw edges of the left and right sides of the original square will meet on the long, right side of the tube.
The overlapping triangle pattern you have just formed will eventually be the face of the cube that you will close at the last step. The pattern on the opposite face of the cube will look identical, but will be formed in a different way.
(F) Now that we have formed all the pre-creases for this row, open the sheet all the way, pressing it flat, but without erasing the folds you have created.
4.2 Row 2
We will now be working with the four squares in row 2, the second row from the top.
(A) Bring the row of four squares towards you, into an upright position along the center horizontal crease line of your square.
Note: Unlike with the row we folded in 4.1 above, where we only lifted a single row with 4 squares, things may feel different because, in this case, we are lifting 2 rows with 8 squares in total.
However, we will be working mainly with the second row, where all our diagonal creases have been made already.
Instead of folding the model closed as we did for row 4, we will just accentuate our diagonal and vertical creases so they will start to work together towards forming the 3D cube shape.
We are also going to handle the pre-creases in this row for each of the four squares separately and not necessarily from left to right, since it is in this row where the actual twisting of the paper will take place.
So, although we will end up with the same overlapping or spiral pattern as we have seen in 4.1 above, on this side of the cube, some of our squares and triangles will move or switch places, so we cannot simply fold from left to right as we did previously with row 4.
(B) Square 5:
Lift the left edge of the model up and to the right along the first vertical crease.
At the same time using the fingers of your left hand, encourage the Square 5 diagonal crease and the vertical crease between Squares 5 and 6 to fold.
Result: This will cause a double layer triangle to form that is sticking out at the back of the model with Square 1 above it.
Make strong creases and then unfold.
(C) Square 8: While holding the paper upright again as in the previous step, pinch the diagonal fold of Square 8 so it folds into a two-layered triangle. At the same time, the wall that you are holding up should fold down towards you, forming a roof of 3 squares to the left.
Make strong creases and unfold.
(D) Square 7: Repeat pinching the diagonal within this square in the same way. Try to ignore the other folds, just reinforcing this one diagonal.
You will have a roof of 2 squares forming to the left of this square.
Unfold.
(E) Square 6: Lastly, repeat the previous pinch along the diagonal of Square 6, ignoring the creases to its right for the moment.
Result: You have now worked with each of the 4 squares in Row 2.
(F) Open the sheet all the way again, pressing it flat, but without erasing the folds you have created in this row.
4.3 Vertical Creases
To finally strengthen our vertical creases, we will first fold our sheet in half again, by bringing the top edge to meet the bottom edge. Now, accentuate the three vertical folds of your new, two-layered rectangle as valleys, folding through both layers.
In other words, you can fold the left edge of the folded rectangle over along the first crease line you encounter. Then doing the same with the vertical fold on the right and lastly, fold the sheet in half from either or both sides, to accentuate the central vertical crease.
PART 2 - FORMING THE CUBE
You may now choose between Alternative 1 or 2.
If you find you are struggling with forming the cube, you could even use a combination of both methods or go back to Step 4.
The two alternative options are marked with a star symbol to make them easier to find within this document.
* ALTERNATIVE 1 - THE SLIDE
For many people, the slide will work flawlessly the first time. However, if this does not happen for you, you could try Alternative 2 below, or a combination of both.
The aim with the slide is to use one motion to change the model from a flat, two-layered rectangle into a 3D figure that will resemble a square tube. All the creases made within the two top rows should work together and fall into place to form one face of the cube furthest away from you as well as create the four double-layered smooth faces of the cube.
After folding the flat sheet in half, the general idea will be to push the top layer of the flat paper away from you so it will rise up and also curl inwards towards the center of the model.
Step 5 - FOLDING IN HALF
Fold the flat square in half by bringing the horizontal edge furthest away from you to meet the edge nearest you.
You will now have a two-layered rectangle in landscape orientation. If we keep the numbering we allocated in Step 3 above unchanged, we will find that squares 1 to 8, now making up the top layer of the rectangle, will now lie face down on top of squares 9 to 16, which will make up the bottom layer of the rectangle.
Also, the former Row 1 will now be nearest us and the former Row 2 will be furthest away from us.
Step 6 - CHANGING PLACES AND GOING 3D
(A) Explanation
The formation is started off by sliding Square 3 so it takes the place of Square 6. In other words, the bottom layer of the paper should stay anchored on the table while you do the sliding motion with the top layer of the paper. Put in another way, the lower layer stays in place and the top layer glides across or slides above it.
As you push the paper forward, the folds of Square 6 should start to rise up, making space for Square 3 to take its place.
As the motion reaches its end, the triangles furthest away from you should tilt or twist together so they form the first face of the cube.
(B) Considering the two-layered rectangle we are now working with, locate Square 3 of the former Row 1 as well as Square 6, in the former row 2.
Square 3 will be in the row nearest you, second from right.
Square 6 will be in the row furthest away from you, second from the left.
(C) Before doing the slide, with your left hand, lift up the left edge of the rectangle along the first vertical crease from the left so you have it standing up, like a two-layered wall. Curl your hand into a kind of a spoon shape and place it on the left of the wall. You can use your thumb to hold down the bottom layer of the paper on the table, just inside or to the right of the wall.
(D) What to expect:
As you perform the next motion, on the left of the model, furthest away, you should feel a 90 degree corner forming, with a two-layered triangle on the outside of the structure. The left side will be made up of a kind of wall of two squares.
When you do the slide, the flat paper should rise into an upright position, with the diagonals forming the triangles that will make up the first face of the cube.
The pre-creases will also let the right side of the structure tilt to the left, all the way until it slides in under the roof-like square that will form during the movement.
(E) To start off the slide, with your right forefinger, firmly press down on square 3 and push it diagonally to the left. It should move one block to the left and one block forward, until it takes the place of where square 6 used to be.
Make sure not to turn or rotate square 3 when you slide it. It should be a firm, flat, diagonal forward motion, as if you are gliding a flat piece of plastic across a game board.
This action may be difficult to achieve and it may feel like a strange maneuver at first. Don't be discouraged, though. Press down hard enough on the paper so you can slide the top layer across the bottom layer. You should feel a definite corner forming at the far left of the model. Slide the square all the way as far as it will go.
Result: The creases will form a tight corner, just where your left hand is curled around the paper, while another small triangle will form on the left side, behind the wall. At the same time, the sides of the model, which will be the smooth squares, will also slide closed and across each other, into the narrow tube or tunnel structure mentioned earlier.
In fact, all the triangles will fold, one in front of the other, to fit into a single square.
(F) You can help things along by tilting the right edge of the model to the left so that the overlapping triangles will fold from both the left and the right, forming into the spiral formation we are looking for.
The tube or tunnel will form four sides, with its opening nearest you, and a long slit on the left, where the raw edges of the paper meet.
(G) Once the tube has formed, you can make sure that it has no obstructions on the inside by inserting your finger all the way to the back. You will be able to check the spiral motif is formed from the inside as well as the outside of the cube.
If you find that the inside of the cube is not forming a flat panel, you can gently press the folds away from you as far as they will go.
Important: When checking the spiral pattern on the face of the cube at this point, you will find it is not complete yet. It will look like two small and one large triangle.
Once you do the changing of faces with the panel on the long side of the tube in the next step, the spiral pattern will show up correctly, with four overlapping triangles, and that face of the cube will be completed.
Step 7 - MOVING ONE FACE
At this time, one of the smooth faces formed during the slide ends up being "on the outside" instead of "on the inside" of the cube and you have to move it to the inside.
To do this, with the open end of the tube still nearest you, find the long slit on the left side of the tube shape. Follow this slit away from you to find the square that will be facing up, toward the ceiling. The square in question will have a loose corner on the bottom right, which can be lifted. Once you find the square, gently pull the panel on the right of it open to the right, while tucking in the square under the long right panel.
The face of the cube furthest away from you will now be completed, showing up with four small triangles in an overlapping pattern.
The four sides will also have formed as double layers.
* ALTERNATIVE 2 - THE TWIST
If you have been unsuccessful with The Slide, you can try the following, or if you are trying this method first, nothing stops you from also trying The Slide.
(A) Keeping in mind the numbers we had allocated to our flat square in Part 1 above, lift Rows 1 and 2 up along the center horizontal crease so they form a wall in front of you. Hold the wall upright with your right hand.
(B) With your left hand grasp Square 5 along the diagonal crease. You can place your thumb on the front side of the square, with your index finger at the back.
(C) Lift the left edge of the model up and to the right along the first vertical crease.
At the same time using the fingers of your left hand, encourage the Square 5 diagonal crease and the vertical crease between Squares 5 and 6 to fold.
Result: This will cause a double layer triangle to form that is sticking out at the back of the model with Square 1 above it.
(D) Push the Square 1 and square 5 double layer triangle section to the right so that it lays against the back of the model, behind Squares 2 and 6.
Result: You should now have the following:
• Squares 10, 11, 12, 14, 15 and 16 are flat on the table closest to you.
• Squares 9 and 13 are standing up vertically like a wall on the left edge of the model.
• Squares 2, 3, 4, 6, 7 and 8 are standing up vertically like a wall on the edge of your model furthest away from you.
• Square 1 is standing up vertically flat against the back of Square 2, and below that the Square 5 double layer triangle is standing up vertically against the back of Square 6.
(E) Position your left hand so that your palm is supporting Square 9 and your fingers are wrapped behind the model to support the Square 5 double layered triangle that is behind Square 6.
With your right hand, pull Squares 2-4 towards you slightly so you can get the fingers of your right hand down to encourage the folds in Row 2 to fall in place as follows.
• The diagonal creases in Squares 6, 7 and 8 should be mountain folds.
• The vertical creases between Squares 6 and 7 and Squares 7 and 8 should be valley folds.
• The horizontal creases between Squares 2 and 6, Squares 3 and 7 and Squares 4 and 8 should be valley folds.
(F) Use your right hand to pinch the diagonal valley fold in Square 7 and then move your right hand to the left. As you do this, use your right index finger to push the intersection of Squares 2, 3, 6 and 7 down and to the back of the model. As you do this, double layered triangles will begin to fall in place in Squares 6, 7 and 8.
(G) Use the fingers of your right hand to encourage the Square 6 double layered triangle to flatten up against the front of the Square 5 double layered triangle. Do the same with the double layered triangles of Squares 7 and 8 to get them to flatten up against the back of the model.
Result: The Square 7 double layered triangle is moving into place up against the front of the Square 6 double layered triangle, and the Square 8 double layered triangle is moving up against the front of the Square 7 double layered triangle.
At the same time, Square 1 will start moving into place to form a roof, and the right edge of the model will start to move up and to the left.
(H) As the right edge lifts up, let the palm of your right hand support Squares 3 and 4 on the outside of the model. Then use the fingers of your left hand to guide the Square 5 double layered triangle in front of the Square 8 double layered triangle, and guide Square 1 under Square 4.
(I) Next, use your left hand to support the entire model to keep everything in place as you insert the fingers of your right hand inside the model to ensure all Row 2 double layered triangles are pushed up flat against the back of the model. Once this is done, confirm that Square 1 is completely hidden under Square 4 forming a roof. You have completed 5 of the 6 faces of your cube.
PART 3 - CLOSING THE CUBE
Let the tube stand upright, with its closed end on the table and the open end should face the ceiling.
You will be using the squares around this open end to close the cube securely.
(A) Rotate the tube until you find a square that has a diagonal fold. This will be the square that had previously been on the far left. There will already be a diagonal fold, so, if necessary, fold the point of this square inwards so it disappears inside the tube.
(B) Now, press this same folded triangle flat so it folds on top of the open end of the tube. It should feel a little like you are snapping it into place as you push down.
(C) Rotate the tube to the right 90 degrees so you can find the next square.
(D) Push this square down on top of the previous one so it forms another triangle.
(E) Repeat once more.
(F) Lastly, you will find you are left with a two-layered pointy flap. Hold both layers of the flap together and fold it on top of the other triangles, tucking it in under the nearest fold, completing the spiral pattern and finally closing the cube.
(G) Make sure the edges of the cube are straight and neat, especially where the two smooth sides with raw edges come together. Also check that the spiral pattern on the two opposite faces are complete and correct.
Making origami accessible through text-based instructions.
For non-commercial use only.
Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, May 2025
This text copyright 2025 by accessorigami.com and the author
Text-Only Instructions - Copyright 2025 by Lindy van der Merwe
accessorigami.com
Various sites show how to fold this famous cube by Shuzo Fujimoto.
For visual/video instructions, go to
origami-instructions.com Fujimoto Cube
With thankful acknowledgement to Anette Carr and Reiner Delgado for testing and for submitting editing suggestions and alternative folding methods; to Elrina van der Merwe for her practical help and to Michal Kosmulski for his kind and patient explanations via email, some of which is quoted as part of the text below.
Michal has spent considerable time and effort in making the work of Fujimoto accessible and available online and to more people in general.
You can read his article here.
Shuzo Fujimoto - First Origami Engineer
Paper to be used: A square of around 15 x 15 cm or larger - thicker paper or thin card stock is strongly recommended. You can try to use copy or printer paper or even braille paper should work well for this cube.
Folding level: Intermediate
Remarks:
It is suggested you read this entire tutorial before starting to fold, since Step 4 is optional and you will be able to choose between two different methods of folding in Part 2 below.
If lightly wrapped with ribbon, this cube makes a nice hanging decoration.
To use as a box, small objects can be added before the cube is closed.
Description
The Fujimoto Cube, undoubtedly one of Shuzo Fujimoto's most famous models, is considered by many to be a work of genius. The finished model is a regular cube with six faces that are all the same size. However, two opposite faces of this cube feature a beautiful motif, made up of four triangles that are formed into an overlapping, spiral pattern. The remaining four faces of the cube are smooth. This remarkable model is folded with a single sheet of paper.
The folding process includes making a grid, adding diagonal folds and then using a sliding move to transform or collapse the structure into the required shape.
The tutorial is divided into three parts:
Part 1 explains all the pre-creases to be made in detail.
Please note that Step 4 is optional; if you have mentally numbered your grid and feel that your creases are strong and accurate enough after completing Steps 1, 2 and 3, simply skip to Part 2.
In Part 2, Alternative 1 describes the sliding or collapsing step used by most people as can be seen in the video mentioned above. However, you could also try out Alternative 2, which we will call The Twist for the purposes of this tutorial, which could be described as a more "hands-on" approach, where the cube is formed "manually", or "square by square".
Part 3 explains how to close the cube.
PART 1 – PRE-CREASES
Making strong and accurate pre-creases is especially important for this model, since it relies on various creases to fold in a certain way for the folding process to be successful.
Step 1 - THE GRID
We will first form a grid of 16 squares, which will all be formed by making vertical and horizontal valley folds.
You can perform these pre-creases in any way you prefer, as long as all of them end up being valley folds on the side of the paper you have chosen for the inside of the cube.
So, the side you want for the outside of the cube should be facing down when you start.
You will position the square with its edges at the top and bottom and on the left and right.
Perhaps the easiest and most accurate way would be to make a book fold, followed by a cupboard fold. Unfold the square and rotate it 90 degrees. Then repeat the book and cupboard folds. Unfold.
Some people find it easier to fold an edge away from them, so you can just as well fold the top and bottom edges of the paper instead of folding from left to right.
Result: You should end up with a square that has been divided into 16 small squares or with the crease lines forming a 4 by 4 grid.
Step 2 - THE DIAGONALS
With your square flat and one of its edges nearest you, mentally divide your square into four rows, numbering them from one at the top to four at the bottom.
•
We are going to add diagonal creases in row 2 and row 4.
•
Like the creases of the grid, the diagonal lines should also be valley creases, so make sure your paper is not turned over after Step 1.
•
Each small block should have its own crease that should run from the top left corner diagonally down to the bottom right corner.
•
This means there will be eight diagonal creases in total, 4 in row 2 and 4 in row 4.
•
If you have not performed isolated folds like these before, take your time to practice so you can get used to manipulating the paper. For some models it won't matter if you make "extra" creases, but in this case it is important to have creases only where indicated.
You may prefer to keep the sheet flat on the table, or it may be easier to fold it in the air. Don't hesitate to turn the sheet in any orientation that will allow you to make the folds in the right direction. Be especially careful with the corners of the diagonal folds. They should not extend beyond the corners of the square you are working with.
•
If your grid is accurate, with strong creases, this will make folding the diagonals easier as well.
The diagonal creases across the inner squares will be more difficult to make. Just be patient and you will find ways to manipulate the paper in these areas.
It may be helpful if you can strengthen your vertical and horizontal creases while you are forming your diagonal creases. One way to do this is to lift your paper up at a 90 degree angle and to pinch along the vertical and horizontal edges of each block once you have formed a diagonal. In this way you will be able to strengthen each fold separately, while making sure that all your valley creases are reinforced and that your corners are more accurate.
Result: Your open, flat square should now have the following crease pattern:
Row 1 (furthest away from you) has 4 squares;
Row 2 has 8 small triangles.
Row 3 has 4 squares again;
Row 4 has 8 triangles again.
Note that, from this point onwards, we will not be making any further creases in order to construct our cube. Instead, we will be manipulating our pre-creases to complete our cube.
Step 3 - NUMBERING AND ORIENTATION
In this step, we need to mentally allocate a number for each of the squares on our grid as follows:
The top row or row 1 will be numbered squares 1 to 4 from left to right;
Row 2 is made up of squares 5 to 8 with each square comprising 2 triangles formed by a diagonal crease running from the top left to the bottom right;
Row 3 contains squares 9 to 12; and
Row 4 is made up of squares 13 to 16 with each square comprising 2 triangles formed by a diagonal crease running from the top left to the bottom right.
Put another way, Row 1 starts with Square 1, Row 2 starts with Square 5, Row 3 starts with Square 9 and Row 4 starts with Square 13.
These numbers will be referred to in the rest of this tutorial.
STEP 4 - STRENGTHENING VERTICAL AND DIAGONAL CREASES (Optional)
This step has three purposes: On the one hand it may help you to combine the vertical and diagonal creases in order to strengthen them even more, coaxing the creases into specific directions.
On the other, Steps 4.1 and 4.2 below will give you an idea as to how the overlapping pattern will form and feel like on two opposite faces of the cube.
Thirdly, you will have a chance to get used to the numbering and terms used for the actual formation of the cube in Part 2.
4.1 Row 4
We will first be working with Squares 13 to 16, in row 4, the row nearest us, starting on the left and moving to the right.
(A) Bring the row of four squares into an upright position along the first horizontal crease line from the bottom.
(B) Holding the paper upright, at 90 degrees in relation to the table, fold Square 13 in half, away from you, along the existing diagonal line.
Result: Square 13 will now be a double layer triangle.
(C) Next, take the Square 13 double layer triangle and gently push it to the right so it will tilt over, bringing the entire left edge of the model with it. It will tilt along the first vertical fold from the left.
Result: The Square 13 double layer triangle will move in behind Square 14, which will also fold into a double layer triangle.
(D) Now, holding both the two layer triangles together, since they are now in the same square, perform the same tilting action once more to the right. This time, both the folded triangles on the left will tilt over to the right and slide in behind Square 15, that will, in turn, fold into a third double layer triangle, starting to form the spiral or overlapping shape mentioned earlier.
Each time your entire long square will also fold over to the right, along the vertical crease lines of the model, forming what can be described as a square tube.
(E) Tilt the 3 double layer triangles to the right for the last time, bringing the entire shape with you. The three folded triangles should move in behind Square 16, that will itself collapse into a double layer triangle, that will be sloping upwards to the right into a point that will face the ceiling.
Result: The entire shape should now be a long, square tube. Its one end will be closed nearest you and the raw edges of the left and right sides of the original square will meet on the long, right side of the tube.
The overlapping triangle pattern you have just formed will eventually be the face of the cube that you will close at the last step. The pattern on the opposite face of the cube will look identical, but will be formed in a different way.
(F) Now that we have formed all the pre-creases for this row, open the sheet all the way, pressing it flat, but without erasing the folds you have created.
4.2 Row 2
We will now be working with the four squares in row 2, the second row from the top.
(A) Bring the row of four squares towards you, into an upright position along the center horizontal crease line of your square.
Note: Unlike with the row we folded in 4.1 above, where we only lifted a single row with 4 squares, things may feel different because, in this case, we are lifting 2 rows with 8 squares in total.
However, we will be working mainly with the second row, where all our diagonal creases have been made already.
Instead of folding the model closed as we did for row 4, we will just accentuate our diagonal and vertical creases so they will start to work together towards forming the 3D cube shape.
We are also going to handle the pre-creases in this row for each of the four squares separately and not necessarily from left to right, since it is in this row where the actual twisting of the paper will take place.
So, although we will end up with the same overlapping or spiral pattern as we have seen in 4.1 above, on this side of the cube, some of our squares and triangles will move or switch places, so we cannot simply fold from left to right as we did previously with row 4.
(B) Square 5:
Lift the left edge of the model up and to the right along the first vertical crease.
At the same time using the fingers of your left hand, encourage the Square 5 diagonal crease and the vertical crease between Squares 5 and 6 to fold.
Result: This will cause a double layer triangle to form that is sticking out at the back of the model with Square 1 above it.
Make strong creases and then unfold.
(C) Square 8: While holding the paper upright again as in the previous step, pinch the diagonal fold of Square 8 so it folds into a two-layered triangle. At the same time, the wall that you are holding up should fold down towards you, forming a roof of 3 squares to the left.
Make strong creases and unfold.
(D) Square 7: Repeat pinching the diagonal within this square in the same way. Try to ignore the other folds, just reinforcing this one diagonal.
You will have a roof of 2 squares forming to the left of this square.
Unfold.
(E) Square 6: Lastly, repeat the previous pinch along the diagonal of Square 6, ignoring the creases to its right for the moment.
Result: You have now worked with each of the 4 squares in Row 2.
(F) Open the sheet all the way again, pressing it flat, but without erasing the folds you have created in this row.
4.3 Vertical Creases
To finally strengthen our vertical creases, we will first fold our sheet in half again, by bringing the top edge to meet the bottom edge. Now, accentuate the three vertical folds of your new, two-layered rectangle as valleys, folding through both layers.
In other words, you can fold the left edge of the folded rectangle over along the first crease line you encounter. Then doing the same with the vertical fold on the right and lastly, fold the sheet in half from either or both sides, to accentuate the central vertical crease.
PART 2 - FORMING THE CUBE
You may now choose between Alternative 1 or 2.
If you find you are struggling with forming the cube, you could even use a combination of both methods or go back to Step 4.
The two alternative options are marked with a star symbol to make them easier to find within this document.
* ALTERNATIVE 1 - THE SLIDE
For many people, the slide will work flawlessly the first time. However, if this does not happen for you, you could try Alternative 2 below, or a combination of both.
The aim with the slide is to use one motion to change the model from a flat, two-layered rectangle into a 3D figure that will resemble a square tube. All the creases made within the two top rows should work together and fall into place to form one face of the cube furthest away from you as well as create the four double-layered smooth faces of the cube.
After folding the flat sheet in half, the general idea will be to push the top layer of the flat paper away from you so it will rise up and also curl inwards towards the center of the model.
Step 5 - FOLDING IN HALF
Fold the flat square in half by bringing the horizontal edge furthest away from you to meet the edge nearest you.
You will now have a two-layered rectangle in landscape orientation. If we keep the numbering we allocated in Step 3 above unchanged, we will find that squares 1 to 8, now making up the top layer of the rectangle, will now lie face down on top of squares 9 to 16, which will make up the bottom layer of the rectangle.
Also, the former Row 1 will now be nearest us and the former Row 2 will be furthest away from us.
Step 6 - CHANGING PLACES AND GOING 3D
(A) Explanation
The formation is started off by sliding Square 3 so it takes the place of Square 6. In other words, the bottom layer of the paper should stay anchored on the table while you do the sliding motion with the top layer of the paper. Put in another way, the lower layer stays in place and the top layer glides across or slides above it.
As you push the paper forward, the folds of Square 6 should start to rise up, making space for Square 3 to take its place.
As the motion reaches its end, the triangles furthest away from you should tilt or twist together so they form the first face of the cube.
(B) Considering the two-layered rectangle we are now working with, locate Square 3 of the former Row 1 as well as Square 6, in the former row 2.
Square 3 will be in the row nearest you, second from right.
Square 6 will be in the row furthest away from you, second from the left.
(C) Before doing the slide, with your left hand, lift up the left edge of the rectangle along the first vertical crease from the left so you have it standing up, like a two-layered wall. Curl your hand into a kind of a spoon shape and place it on the left of the wall. You can use your thumb to hold down the bottom layer of the paper on the table, just inside or to the right of the wall.
(D) What to expect:
As you perform the next motion, on the left of the model, furthest away, you should feel a 90 degree corner forming, with a two-layered triangle on the outside of the structure. The left side will be made up of a kind of wall of two squares.
When you do the slide, the flat paper should rise into an upright position, with the diagonals forming the triangles that will make up the first face of the cube.
The pre-creases will also let the right side of the structure tilt to the left, all the way until it slides in under the roof-like square that will form during the movement.
(E) To start off the slide, with your right forefinger, firmly press down on square 3 and push it diagonally to the left. It should move one block to the left and one block forward, until it takes the place of where square 6 used to be.
Make sure not to turn or rotate square 3 when you slide it. It should be a firm, flat, diagonal forward motion, as if you are gliding a flat piece of plastic across a game board.
This action may be difficult to achieve and it may feel like a strange maneuver at first. Don't be discouraged, though. Press down hard enough on the paper so you can slide the top layer across the bottom layer. You should feel a definite corner forming at the far left of the model. Slide the square all the way as far as it will go.
Result: The creases will form a tight corner, just where your left hand is curled around the paper, while another small triangle will form on the left side, behind the wall. At the same time, the sides of the model, which will be the smooth squares, will also slide closed and across each other, into the narrow tube or tunnel structure mentioned earlier.
In fact, all the triangles will fold, one in front of the other, to fit into a single square.
(F) You can help things along by tilting the right edge of the model to the left so that the overlapping triangles will fold from both the left and the right, forming into the spiral formation we are looking for.
The tube or tunnel will form four sides, with its opening nearest you, and a long slit on the left, where the raw edges of the paper meet.
(G) Once the tube has formed, you can make sure that it has no obstructions on the inside by inserting your finger all the way to the back. You will be able to check the spiral motif is formed from the inside as well as the outside of the cube.
If you find that the inside of the cube is not forming a flat panel, you can gently press the folds away from you as far as they will go.
Important: When checking the spiral pattern on the face of the cube at this point, you will find it is not complete yet. It will look like two small and one large triangle.
Once you do the changing of faces with the panel on the long side of the tube in the next step, the spiral pattern will show up correctly, with four overlapping triangles, and that face of the cube will be completed.
Step 7 - MOVING ONE FACE
At this time, one of the smooth faces formed during the slide ends up being "on the outside" instead of "on the inside" of the cube and you have to move it to the inside.
To do this, with the open end of the tube still nearest you, find the long slit on the left side of the tube shape. Follow this slit away from you to find the square that will be facing up, toward the ceiling. The square in question will have a loose corner on the bottom right, which can be lifted. Once you find the square, gently pull the panel on the right of it open to the right, while tucking in the square under the long right panel.
The face of the cube furthest away from you will now be completed, showing up with four small triangles in an overlapping pattern.
The four sides will also have formed as double layers.
* ALTERNATIVE 2 - THE TWIST
If you have been unsuccessful with The Slide, you can try the following, or if you are trying this method first, nothing stops you from also trying The Slide.
(A) Keeping in mind the numbers we had allocated to our flat square in Part 1 above, lift Rows 1 and 2 up along the center horizontal crease so they form a wall in front of you. Hold the wall upright with your right hand.
(B) With your left hand grasp Square 5 along the diagonal crease. You can place your thumb on the front side of the square, with your index finger at the back.
(C) Lift the left edge of the model up and to the right along the first vertical crease.
At the same time using the fingers of your left hand, encourage the Square 5 diagonal crease and the vertical crease between Squares 5 and 6 to fold.
Result: This will cause a double layer triangle to form that is sticking out at the back of the model with Square 1 above it.
(D) Push the Square 1 and square 5 double layer triangle section to the right so that it lays against the back of the model, behind Squares 2 and 6.
Result: You should now have the following:
• Squares 10, 11, 12, 14, 15 and 16 are flat on the table closest to you.
• Squares 9 and 13 are standing up vertically like a wall on the left edge of the model.
• Squares 2, 3, 4, 6, 7 and 8 are standing up vertically like a wall on the edge of your model furthest away from you.
• Square 1 is standing up vertically flat against the back of Square 2, and below that the Square 5 double layer triangle is standing up vertically against the back of Square 6.
(E) Position your left hand so that your palm is supporting Square 9 and your fingers are wrapped behind the model to support the Square 5 double layered triangle that is behind Square 6.
With your right hand, pull Squares 2-4 towards you slightly so you can get the fingers of your right hand down to encourage the folds in Row 2 to fall in place as follows.
• The diagonal creases in Squares 6, 7 and 8 should be mountain folds.
• The vertical creases between Squares 6 and 7 and Squares 7 and 8 should be valley folds.
• The horizontal creases between Squares 2 and 6, Squares 3 and 7 and Squares 4 and 8 should be valley folds.
(F) Use your right hand to pinch the diagonal valley fold in Square 7 and then move your right hand to the left. As you do this, use your right index finger to push the intersection of Squares 2, 3, 6 and 7 down and to the back of the model. As you do this, double layered triangles will begin to fall in place in Squares 6, 7 and 8.
(G) Use the fingers of your right hand to encourage the Square 6 double layered triangle to flatten up against the front of the Square 5 double layered triangle. Do the same with the double layered triangles of Squares 7 and 8 to get them to flatten up against the back of the model.
Result: The Square 7 double layered triangle is moving into place up against the front of the Square 6 double layered triangle, and the Square 8 double layered triangle is moving up against the front of the Square 7 double layered triangle.
At the same time, Square 1 will start moving into place to form a roof, and the right edge of the model will start to move up and to the left.
(H) As the right edge lifts up, let the palm of your right hand support Squares 3 and 4 on the outside of the model. Then use the fingers of your left hand to guide the Square 5 double layered triangle in front of the Square 8 double layered triangle, and guide Square 1 under Square 4.
(I) Next, use your left hand to support the entire model to keep everything in place as you insert the fingers of your right hand inside the model to ensure all Row 2 double layered triangles are pushed up flat against the back of the model. Once this is done, confirm that Square 1 is completely hidden under Square 4 forming a roof. You have completed 5 of the 6 faces of your cube.
PART 3 - CLOSING THE CUBE
Let the tube stand upright, with its closed end on the table and the open end should face the ceiling.
You will be using the squares around this open end to close the cube securely.
(A) Rotate the tube until you find a square that has a diagonal fold. This will be the square that had previously been on the far left. There will already be a diagonal fold, so, if necessary, fold the point of this square inwards so it disappears inside the tube.
(B) Now, press this same folded triangle flat so it folds on top of the open end of the tube. It should feel a little like you are snapping it into place as you push down.
(C) Rotate the tube to the right 90 degrees so you can find the next square.
(D) Push this square down on top of the previous one so it forms another triangle.
(E) Repeat once more.
(F) Lastly, you will find you are left with a two-layered pointy flap. Hold both layers of the flap together and fold it on top of the other triangles, tucking it in under the nearest fold, completing the spiral pattern and finally closing the cube.
(G) Make sure the edges of the cube are straight and neat, especially where the two smooth sides with raw edges come together. Also check that the spiral pattern on the two opposite faces are complete and correct.
Making origami accessible through text-based instructions.
For non-commercial use only.
Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, May 2025
This text copyright 2025 by accessorigami.com and the author
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