MOD45 - MODULAR PINWHEEL CUBE BY DAVID MITCHELL (FROM 2 SQUARES)

Credits and Resources:

This Text-Only Tutorial copyright 2025 by Lindy van der Merwe 

accessorigami.com

Design of the Modular Pinwheel Cube copyright by David Mitchell

This tutorial is based on the text and diagrams contained in the PDF document you may obtain from Origami Heaven, the website of writer and origami designer, David Mitchell.

origamiheaven.com - pinwheel.pd    

The folding process described here includes the necessary additions/adaptations to make the instructions accessible so it will be possible to fold the model without sight.

Instructions for Part 3 have been slightly modified from     

MDL0083 - TRADITIONAL PINWHEEL PURSE

The parts of the text marked as "AI" were obtained through the use of the latest model available from Google - 

    Gemini 3 Pro

(December 2025)

Note on Accessibility and AI

Many of us have experienced the impact of AI in our daily lives, a development that will no doubt bring changes that we could only have dreamed of.

Continuing along the path of doing what we can with what we have at present, I believe it is up to us to find ways to use the available tools and technology to our advantage, so, for the first time, AI has been used to acquire two different types of information to make this tutorial possible:

PDF Accessibility: Firstly, in this case, the text of the PDF was not usable within the document itself - it could be read but the steps were significantly jumbled. I started by uploading the abovementioned PDF document into a chat with Gemini 3 Pro, hereafter referred to as the AI.

Depending on the AI used, the PDF itself and some other factors, you may find this working for you, or sometimes not. Asking the AI to "make sense of the jumbled text" and send it back to me in an accessible format worked well.

Step by Step Directions: Secondly, and perhaps more importantly, at this point in time, asking the average LLM for "general" steps to fold a model is likely not to work well. I have found more success by not letting the AI interpret too much for me, and rather using my own experience to help me ask for specific visual clues or confirmation of some steps. Things are improving, but you will still find rampant misinterpretations of diagrams, hallucinations and "false" confirmations if you lead the model too much. 

Instead, it would seem that it may be better to ask for some specific confirmation of a step or to ask the AI to just describe a picture or a diagram. To illustrate this, some prompts and AI responses are used in this tutorial.

Summary

Since this is a somewhat lengthy tutorial, the following summary may help you with an overview of the folding process for this model. Note that after the pinwheel itself is formed, the 'tucking in' and 'pulling out' move is necessary to transform the module into its correct shape.

If you are able to fold the pinwheel from a 3 x 3 grid, you can skip to Step 15 of this tutorial, but it is suggested you read through the process at least once, to make sure you don't inadvertently skip some of the necessary folding sequences.

Phase 1: Folding the units

Part 1 - Creating the 3 x 3 grid

Part 2 - Making Diagonal Folds

Part 3 - Creating the Traditional Pinwheel

Part 4 - The Pull-Out Move

Phase 2 - Assembly

Introduction and Requirements

Description:

Pinwheel Cubes are two-part modular designs developed from the traditional design known as the Pinwheel or Puzzle Purse, a model that is folded from a 3 x 3 grid.

Note: It is possible to arrive at other Pinwheel Cubes by inverting one, two, three, or potentially even four of the wings, but assembly becomes progressively more challenging as the number of wings you are trying to invert increases.

The basic form of the cube described in this tutorial has four wings, making it an attractive decoration or gift container.

You can picture it with its bottom, flat face resting on a table and the opposite face, also flat, will face the ceiling. The flaps or wings are sticking out on the left, right, front and back sides of the finished model. They are positioned diagonally and perpendicular to four of the cube's faces, forming a beautiful rotating pattern.

Folding Level: Intermediate

Paper Needed: 2 squares for each cube. Any kind of paper can be used, although thicker paper will work better for learning how the units should be formed and assembled.

Phase 1: Folding the first unit

Part 1 - Creating the 3 x 3 grid

NOTE: This model requires folding your square into thirds. A folding method is described below in Step 2, but alternatively you can also use a template if you are more familiar with its use.

All folds should be made as valley folds.

Step 1

If using two-sided origami paper, lay your paper with the patterned or colored side down before starting to fold.

Place the square down with its edges to the left and right, top and bottom.

Step 2

Divide and fold your square into thirds.

The easiest method I have found to do this is to pick up your paper and gently fold the sides over to their opposite edges. This technique is sometimes called the S or Z fold because of its zigzag nature, similar to that of the print letters S and Z. Adjust your folds on both sides before making small creases right at the edges of the paper to mark where you will fold.

Don't worry if this is difficult at first. It will become easier with practice.

After making the marks, unfold all the way again.

Step 3

The area between the marks is the central third of your square. Fold over first the left and then the right edges of the square so they cover the central part. Make strong vertical creases and then unfold both.

Your paper is now divided into thirds.

Step 4

To divide the paper into thirds in the other direction as well, rotate the square through 90 degrees and repeat steps 2 and 3.

Result: The paper is now divided into a 3 x 3 grid of smaller squares.

Part 2 - Creating Diagonal Folds

Expanded Description Using AI:

User: I would appreciate you describing to me the diagonal precreases in detail. We need to know specifically how each crease is oriented. You don't have to tell me how to make the creases. If you can tell me what you can see on each of the nine squares. This will guide me as to what to do with the physical paper.

Gemini: This is a great request. Being precise with these creases is critical because they determine how the model twists together in later steps.

Note on Direction:

Backslash - A crease running from the Top-Left corner to the Bottom-Right corner of the small square.

Forward Slash - A crease running from the Top-Right corner to the Bottom-Left corner of the small square.

These instructions assume your paper is lying flat on the table, right-side up, and you are feeling the grid creases you have just made (which should all be valley folds at this point).

Step 5 - Corner squares

AI: The Four Corner Squares

In this step, you only make diagonal valley folds in the four corner squares of your 3x3 grid. The 5 squares in the middle cross (top-middle, bottom-middle, left-middle, right-middle, and center) remain empty.

" Top-Left Square: Backslash (Runs from top-left of the sheet towards the center).

" Top-Right Square: Forward Slash (Runs from top-right of the sheet towards the center).

" Bottom-Left Square: Forward Slash (Runs from bottom-left of the sheet towards the center).

" Bottom-Right Square: Backslash (Runs from bottom-right of the sheet towards the center).

Summary: All four diagonal creases in the corners point inward towards the center of the paper.

Step 6 - Edge Squares

AI: The Four Edge Squares

In this step, you add diagonals to the four "edge" squares (the squares directly above, below, and to the sides of the center square). The center square itself must remain completely flat and crease-free.

Top-Middle Square: Backslash (Run parallel to the crease in the Top-Left square).

Middle-Left Square: Backslash (Run parallel to the crease in the Top-Left square).

Middle-Right Square: Forward Slash (Run parallel to the crease in the Top-Right square).

Bottom-Middle Square: Forward Slash (Run parallel to the crease in the Bottom-Left square).

Step 7 - Result: Final Grid Pattern

AI: The Final Grid Pattern

Before you turn the paper over, your 3x3 grid should feel like this.

Top Row:

1. 

Top-Left: Backslash

2. 

Top-Middle: Backslash

3. 

Top-Right: Forward Slash

Middle Row: 4. Middle-Left: Backslash

5. Center: EMPTY (Smooth paper, no creases) 

6. Middle-Right: Forward Slash

Bottom Row: 7. Bottom-Left: Forward Slash

8. Bottom-Middle: Forward Slash

9. Bottom-Right: Backslash

Step 8

Turn the paper over sideways.

Part 3 - Creating the Traditional Pinwheel

Step 9

Remember that the square at the center of your 3 x 3 grid will stay flat while you will now form 4 "arms" around it.

Note that the next steps will explain how to form the pinwheel in an anti-clockwise direction.

Once you know how to fold the model and are comfortable with how the folds work, you will likely be able to collapse the shape in a different way. Feel free to do what feels easiest for you.

Step 10

Start with the top right corner of the model.

Pinch the corner between two fingers while moving from the outer point until you reach the central square. As you do this, the previous folds will cause the top right point to rise up together with the top and right sides of the paper.

It will look like a sharp triangular point that is sort of floating in the air. You can bend the end of the triangle gently to the left and then let it just hang there for the moment.

Step 11

Now repeat the pinch folds and the bending of the points with the three remaining corners in order to form a floppy box-like shape with 4 points hanging around on each corner.

Step 12

Starting at the top right corner again, gently press the pointed triangle that is standing up so it folds flat to the left.

You might have to coax the paper a little here, but the precreases should help a lot. You will know that the first arm has been folded correctly if it folds flat onto the square. The fold will actually start on top of the central square itself and the point will be a two-layered flap with an opening to the left. The first arm of the shape should point straight up, away from you and the triangle will slant upwards to the left in relation to the central square.

Step 13

Next, move to the left side of the central square to form the second arm of the pinwheel. You might find that the paper is already almost in position or on the other hand, the paper might have folded itself into the wrong position.

Looking at the central square only, the fold of the second arm will actually start from underneath the fold of the first arm.

So try to hold the first arm in place near its point while creating the second arm, although you might notice the paper shifting near the central square, the first arm should stay in place while you work on the second one.

To make the correct fold, gently grab the triangular point on the left of the central square and pull it towards the ceiling. Make sure you have a nice sharp point as you lift the triangle up.

Once you have the sharp point between your fingers, gently pull or press it flat, to the left so it will form the second arm of the pinwheel.

Once again, the arm will be a two-layered triangle with its opening towards you. It will point straight out from the central square to the left and it will slope downwards to the left in relation to the central square.

Step 14

Repeat the steps with the two remaining arms of the pinwheel, first with the bottom point and lastly folding the right point into place.

Remember that each new arm you are forming will originate from the central square, but forming underneath the previous arm.

You will notice that the precreases have enabled the paper of the central square to overlap and fold into the beautiful rotating pattern of the 4-pointed pinwheel shape.

If your folds seem not to want to collapse as described above, don't be discouraged. This is an intermediate model, so it might take more than one try to get it right. Once you understand how the folds are created underneath/on top of each other, all radiating from the central square, you will realize that the folds are not difficult in themselves, though the collapsing in an anti-clockwise manner is what makes the model so brilliant and beautiful.

Step 15

Notice that the shape is essentially a flat square with a triangle attached to each of its four sides.

We will now turn all four arms inside out in between the other layers using the existing creases.

To do this, grasp the outermost point of each triangle of the pinwheel and press it firmly towards the center square. The layers of the center square should open, allowing the arm to "collapse", coming to rest within the layers of the central square. 

Make sure the arm is laying straight in relation to the side of the central square before pressing it flat.

Step 16

Do this "tucking in" for each of the remaining arms.

Press down firmly on all the edges and diagonals to ensure the creases are set into the paper. 

Result: Once you tuck all four arms inside, the model becomes a multi-layered, compact, flat square that has four distinct triangular flaps that have formed on its top surface, forming a rotating pattern.

Part 4 - The Pull-Out Move

Step 17

We will now perform the "pull-out" move to convert the flat model into a 3D box-like structure.

Pick up the multi-layered square and take hold of the middle layers at the top right and bottom left corners. Gently pull outwards and twist anticlockwise.

The central square will start to open and the sides will start to rise, turning the module into a box-like three-dimensional structure again.

User:

I have found the "middle layers" of the square and am going to do the "pull-out" move now. Can you describe to me what to expect when the move is done?? Please include references as you did before and give as much detail as possible.

AI:

Result: This is the most magical moment of the folding sequence!

Here is exactly what you should expect to feel in your hands once you gently pull and twist the model open.

1. The General Shape: A "Square Bowl"

The flat, multi-layered square you are holding will pop open into a 3D, hollow box (essentially it will become half of the cube).

It is now 3D since it has depth and volume.

2. Orientation: In the picture, the model is facing you like an open container or a shallow square bowl.

3. Parts:

3.1 The Center (Floor): At the very bottom of the "bowl," there is a flat, smooth square. This is the inside face of the module.

3.2 The Walls: Rising up from that central floor are four single-layered walls that may feel slightly sloped or twisted at this point.

3.3 The Wings (The Crucial Part): If you trace the rim of the box with your finger, you will feel a wing sticking out, then a gap, then the next wing, and so on. This matches the "Pinwheel" name—it looks like a 3D windmill that has been frozen mid-spin.

4. The Twist: The instructions explicitly mention an "anticlockwise" twist. As you pull the model open, the paper layers naturally want to rotate. This rotation locks the walls in place and gives the wings their spiraling direction.

Important: The "wings" are jutting out from four of the cube's faces and not from its corners. The edges and corners of the cube remain, in essence, unaffected.

Step 18

Turn the unit upside down (so the opening faces the table).

Step 19

Make a second module following the same steps as above, but leave it the original way up (do not turn it upside down).

Phase 2 - Assembly

Step 20

While gently holding unit 1 on the table, pick up unit 2 and place it so it rests lightly on top of unit 1.

Carefully rotate the top unit about 45 degrees until you can feel that the corners of the two modules match. At the same time, you should feel the arms of the top module start to slide into those of the bottom unit.

Alternatively, open the bottom unit as far as possible and simply place the top module inside it. Now you can do the rotation until the corners and the flaps match.

Once the two modules are perfectly aligned, the cube will be stable. You can now turn it upside down for the last time if you would like for the bottom module to serve as the "lid" or "cover". 

Making origami accessible through text-based tutorials.

For non-commercial use only. 

Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe - December 2025

This text copyright 2025 by accessorigami.com 

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