Credits and Resources
Text-Only Instructions - copyright 2025 by Lindy van der Merwe
Various sites show how to fold this very interesting cube. See, for instance,
This is the fascinating site of David Mitchell, with a wealth of origami information and many interesting tutorials.
Paper to be used: 6 business cards or rectangular paper that is similar in proportion and thickness.
The assembly method can also be used with squares that have been folded into rectangles, but only try this once you are familiar with the way the units are put together for this model.
Folding level: Easy/Beginner to Intermediate
Steps: 15
Description:
The model is a three-dimensional closed six-sided cube or dice. It is created by folding very simple units with only valley folds with no diagonals.
It has some similarities to the Jackson Cube, but unlike the Jackson Cube, that is smooth on the outside, this model has 2 flaps on the outside of each face. These flaps make the cube somehow seem very flimsy, as if it could just fall apart. However, it holds well together and will withstand light use.
The flaps on the outside also allow for some interesting options that are specific to this kind of model.
Firstly, it allows for the addition of smooth, plain or more decorative folded units, so if you do not like the flaps, this is the way to go; secondly, the flaps make it possible to easily join 2 or more cubes to form larger structures. The techniques for both these instances are explained below.
Remarks:
This is a great project for those who would like to start making models using modular origami.
It attempts to introduce the basic concepts, methods and phases of folding and assembling a modular origami project.
The units are fairly easy to fold and assembly is done using a straight, sliding motion.
If lightly wrapped with ribbon, it also makes a nice hanging decoration.
To use as a box, small objects can be added before the last module is inserted.
PHASE 1: CREATING THE UNITS
You will be folding 6 similar units to form your cube.
Unlike with other modular creations, where one unit is folded at a time, with this cube, you will be making 2 units simultaneously.
Note: All folds should be made as valley folds.
Step 1
Place one card down with its short edges left and right, or in landscape orientation.
Step 2
Place another card on top of the first, but in portrait orientation, with the short edges at the top and bottom.
It is not critical to place the second card exactly at the center of the first, but it is important to place the 2 cards so they form 90 degree angles in relation to each other.
Step 3
Fold the left and right edges of the card at the bottom over the top card.
Make a strong crease on both sides and leave folded.
Step 4
Flip the model over from left to right.
Step 5
Now repeat Step 3 by folding the top and bottom flaps that are sticking out so they cover the already-folded card.
Make a strong crease.
Step 6
Gently pull the cards apart, taking care to open out the folded flaps as little as possible.
As David Mitchell explains in his tutorial: "The assembly will be easier and your cube will look better if you keep enough spring in the folds to hold the flaps tight against the faces of the cube".
PHASE 2: FOLD MORE SIMILAR UNITS
Using 2 cards together, repeat steps 1 to 6 2 more times so you have 6 similarly shaped units to work with.
PHASE 3: ASSEMBLING YOUR MODEL
Step 7
Explanation:
First look at your folded unit. It has a central square with a flap on two sides. It resembles a table or desk that is lying upside-down.
The flaps of each unit are opposite each other and rectangular in shape.
In the instructions that follow, you will be working with, on the one hand, the central square and, on the other, what we have termed the two flaps of each unit.
All the loose flaps of the units should stand up at a 90 degree angle to the central square, since this is how your cube will be formed into a three-dimensional shape.
Step 8
Placement and Naming:
It is important to orient each unit exactly as directed. Also, do not turn your model while assembling it as the placement of each unit is described in detail and in order.
8.1 Make sure all 6 units are placed with their central squares facing the table and their flaps pointing up in the air. Once this has been done, set one unit aside for the moment and move the remaining 5 units into a cross formation in front of you on a table as follows:
8.2 Place a unit at the center, mentally naming it as unit 1 or the bottom panel of your cube. Bottom here refers to the side of the dice that is facing the table.
Important: The flaps of unit 1 should be at the top and bottom.
8.3 Then place another unit on the left, mentally numbering it unit 2, followed by a third unit on the right of the first unit, mentally numbering it unit 3.
So, you will have three units in a row now, numbered 2 on the left, 1 at the center and 3 on the right.
Important: Make sure that the 2 units on the left and right have their flaps at the left and right.
8.4 Next, you will place a fourth unit above unit 1 and a fifth below unit 1.
Important: The flaps of these units should also be on the left and right.
8.5
Explanation
Your cross formation will now be complete with the 3 units from left to right and the two you have just added at the top and bottom of unit 1, the central unit.
All will still be with their central squares flat on the table and with the loose flaps arranged as described above.
Now think of your cube as a box with 6 sides. Consider that unit 1 is the panel touching the table, unit 2 and 3 will form the left and right sides of your cube. Units 4 and 5 will form the back and front and the 6th unit will form the top or lid of the cube.
This will make sense as you do the assembly explained below. Basically, the sequence will be to place unit 1 on the table, then add units 2 and 3 to the sides, followed by units 4 and 5 at the back and front and last, unit 6 will form the top or lid of the cube.
Step 9
Start with unit 1 The square part of the model will lie flat while the flaps will point towards the ceiling.
Hold it in place or place something heavy down on top of the central square to keep the paper in place.
Step 10
Take unit 2, on the left and tilt it over to the right, placing its right flap underneath the central square of unit 1.
Unit 2 is now upright, like a wall. Its bottom flap is hidden underneath unit 1 and its top flap is hanging in the air. You can bend it a little away from the central square for the moment.
Step 11
Take unit 3, on the right and tilt it over to the left, placing its left flap underneath the central square of unit 1.
Unit 3 is now upright, like a wall. Its bottom flap is hidden underneath unit 1 and its top flap is hanging in the air. You can bend it a little away from the central square for the moment.
You will now have 3 sides or squares loosely in place, namely the bottom, left and right panels of the cube.
Step 12
Take unit 4 that will form the back panel of the cube and tilt it toward you so it is upright. Place it with its central panel on the inside of the flap of the central square that is furthest away from you.
Make sure that the flaps of this unit (Unit 4) are on the outside of the two walls you have already formed.
Unit 4 will now lean and be held in place against the flap of the central square that is furthest away from you.
Step 13
Insert unit 5 from the side nearest you in the same way, on the inside flap of the central unit, also sliding its flaps on the outside of the side walls.
Unit 5 will also lean and be held in place against the flap of the central square that is nearest you.
Step 14
It is now time to gently press the sides of the cube together so the panels will rest snug against each other.
It is a good idea to also check that all the faces of the cube have flaps showing on the outside of the model, except for the back and front faces, which will receive their flaps in the next step.
This is also the time to place something inside the cube if you would like to use it as a container.
If the left and right flaps have been pushed down against the sides of the cube, gently coax them so they will come up to cover the object you put inside.
Step 15
Pick up the last unit and turn it so its flaps are at the top and bottom and so they are facing the table.
First place the unit so the flaps hang on the outside, over the back and front of the cube.
Once you have it oriented, coax the left and right flaps that are lying underneath the unit, so they will fold to the outside and then over unit 6 in order to anchor it in place.
Try to keep the rest of the panels in place as you do this last step.
Once done, you will find the amazing Business Card Cube is perfectly formed with 2 flaps on each of its 6 sides and an internal structure that keeps it from falling apart.
FURTHER OPTIONS
OPTION 1: Covering the cube
Fold 6 more units that are similar to those described in Phase 1 above.
Then slide these units in on the sides of each face of the cube, in between the layers that have formed.
Each face of the cube will now have a smooth surface and the cube will be stronger and more secure.
You can also experiment with folding squares in various ways to create decorative modules to cover the faces of the cube.
OPTION 2: Joining cubes
Cubes may be joined together by using more cards that are folded in half or by folding rectangles and sliding them into the flaps of adjacent cubes. More cubes can be added to form larger structures.
Making origami accessible through text-based instructions.
For non-commercial use only.
Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe - August 2025, with thankful acknowledgment to Stephan van der Merwe for assistance with assembly of this model
This text copyright 2025 by accessorigami.com
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