Designed by Lindy van der Merwe - 2026
This Text-Only Tutorial copyright 2026 by Lindy van der Merwe
https://www.accessorigami.com
Acknowledgment: My sincere thanks to all test folders and to Annette Carr for elaborating on her folding experience, a wonderful description of the model, tips and for catching an error in the instructions. You can find Annette's construction ideas and valuable tips in Section 4 below.
Paper to be used: 16 squares; any size should work.
Steps: 18
Folding level: Beginner to Intermediate
1. INTRODUCTION
Kusudama (translated from Japanese as "medicine ball"), were originally made of potpourri and incense from real herbs and flowers, and later, became more decorative, using paper folded into flower petals and then glued or sewed together into elaborate spherical shapes.
Instead of using glue or string, many modern origami kusudama take the form of modular origami, where folded units are typically assembled by inserting flaps into pockets of adjacent units.
In this tutorial, we are using the traditional Waterbomb Base to create a sphere or orb, no glue or tape needed. The model is well-suited to beginners who want to venture into modular origami.
The sphere is formed by first constructing a flat disk or base and then each half of the model is created separately, by forming three- and four-sided pyramid-like structures.
The finished model has 10 4-sided pyramids and 8 3-sided pyramids, resulting in a total of 18 cavities that are arranged in a symmetrical pattern.
So, apart from the challenge of construction using modular origami, it can make a nice, sturdy decoration, thoughtful gift or wedding favor.
2. TERMS USED
2.1. Kusudama
In modern origami, kusudama are most often folded from fairly simple units (30 seems to be very popular) without using tape or glue. Generally spherical in shape, countless designs have been created, from intricate flowers to star-like, geometric constructions.
2.2. Arms or flaps
The finished, flat Waterbomb or Triangular Base has four arms or flaps that will be inserted into the arms of other units.
2.3. Pockets
Each arm has an opening that functions as the pocket.
2.4. Ring
In the context of this tutorial, Waterbomb Base units that are joined together, forming a flat ring or disk that may be likened to the equator if we think of the spherical model as the earth.
3. TIPS
3.1. Getting an Overview
It is suggested you read through the full tutorial before starting to fold. This will help you to get an overview of the construction as a whole, improving your understanding of each separate part and individual steps.
3.2. Paper Choice
Use sturdy paper around 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm). The paper should be rigid enough to hold its shape. Consider using thin cardstock or thick copy or construction paper.
3.3. Prepare Enough Units
Fold enough units before starting to put them together. In this way, you won't have to break your concentration during assembly. Should units get floppy or damaged, you will not first have to stop and fold new units.
3.4. Unit Quality
Like with most modular creations, if units lose their springiness, get torn or flattened, start over with new ones. Compromised units can cause the model to lose shape and fall apart.
As with any modular construction, if the units are handled too much, they will lose their shape and then the structure will not hold together.
If you have done any other modulars, especially kusudamas or other geometric figures, you will know that, with practice, as you develop the necessary muscle memory and as you start to understand the structure of the units and the shape you are working towards, you will handle the units less, up to a point where you will be successful with a model that will have units that are strong enough to stay together with no glue or tape.
3.5. Work Area
Use a large tray with a small rim or a flat lid of a box. Keep units on one side and work on the model on the other.
3.6. Organize Units
Keep units in a container and take them out in groups.
3.7. Follow Instructions
Do not insert any units other than those specified in the instructions, even if frustrated.
4. Comments from Annette
4.1. Construction
I added 4 units to form the top half of the orb. This resulted in 4 3-sided pyramids positioned on equator triangles 1, 3, 5 and 7; 4 4-sided pyramids on equator triangles 2, 4, 6 and 8; and 1 4-sided pyramid at the top north pole of the model.
Using the remaining 4 units, I made the bottom half of the model that mirrored the top. So there were 3-sided pyramids below the 3-sided pyramids from the top half; 4-sided pyramids below the 4-sided pyramids from the top half; and a 4-sided pyramid at the south pole of the model.
4.2. Paperclips
I used paper clips to help hold things together and to mark the equator. While I was assembling the model, I linked 2 paperclips together and clipped one of them to an equator triangle, and repeated this for all 8 equator triangles. All other connections were marked with a single paperclip.
4.3. Folding and Tucking Direction
I made sure all the small triangles are consistently folded and tucked into the pockets in the same direction. For example - Hold a unit with its closed center pointing down towards the table, the raw edges of the wings facing the ceiling and with the wings spread (one towards you, another away from you and the remaining two to the left and right).
The small folded triangle on the wing pointing toward you is folded to the left, the wing pointing to the left has the small triangle folded away from you, the wing pointing away from you has the small triangle folded towards the right and the wing pointing to the right has the small triangle folded towards you.
4.4. Using a Template
In order to ensure consistent folding of the small triangles you could pre-fold them based on a template. The problem with this is you might not get a solid connection when you assemble the units. Folding the small triangles as you assemble ensures a custom fit.
5. Instructions
Phase 1 - Making the Waterbomb Base.
You can find instructions for various ways to fold the Waterbomb Base from the following link:
Introduction to Folds and Bases
You will need 16 units.
Phase 2 - Creating the Ring
In this phase we will be creating a flat ring using 8 of our units.
Explanation: Make sure that all units are turned with their closed point facing you. You will then have the four arms of the unit sloping upwards from this point. If you look at one of the arms, you will find that it is also a pocket that can be accessed from the top or the raw edges furthest away from you.
Our aim is to join our Waterbomb Bases to each other into a closed ring, with their closed points touching at the center of the ring. Each unit will link sideways, to the next, with one of its arms. We are forming a flat disk that we can think of as the equator of the spherical object.
Important: As we join the units, we need to ensure that we leave the same amount of "unused" arms of our units on both the back and front of the ring. Put in another way, once the flat ring is completed, there should be 8 free wings left on the back side of the ring, touching the table and another 8 wings will be visible on the front surface or facing the ceiling.
Step 1: Place your first unit on a flat surface with the closed point nearest you. Arrange it so 3 of the flaps are on the left and only one should be on the right.
Step 2: Place unit 2 down to the right of unit 1 in the same orientation, but with two flaps on the left and two on the right.
Step 3: We are going to slide one flap of unit 2 in behind unit 1 and another flap in front of unit 1, but you only need to worry about the two flaps nearest you (one from unit 1 and one from unit 2) in this phase. So, the flaps that will form furthest away from you should be ignored and should remain unfolded. Once the units are placed, make sure their closed points are touching and that the arms fit precisely on top of each other. You will notice two points that will stick out beyond the straight edge of the assembly.
Step 4: Gently open the pocket of unit 1 and tuck the point of unit 2 away from you so it disappears inside the unit. Similarly, take the adjacent point of unit 1 and fold it over towards you, tucking it into the pocket of unit 2. The two arms of the units will now be tucked into the pockets of their neighboring units.
Step 5: Flip the right arm of unit 2 over to the left so you only have one arm of unit 2 on the right of the assembly.
Step 6: Connect the rest of the units in the same way by:
- (a) placing a new unit down with 2 arms on the left and two on the right;
- (b) placing the right unit with one arm on top of and one arm beneath the left unit;
- (c) tucking in first the left point away from you and then the right point towards you so they disappear into their respective pockets;
- (d) flipping the right arm of the new unit over to the left so you have only one arm ready for the addition of the next unit.
Result: As you add more units, a ring will start to form.
Important: Make sure that, as you keep joining new units, there are loose arms on the front as well as the back of each unit in the ring.
Step 7: Once you have added 8 units, join unit 8 with unit 1 in exactly the same way as you have been doing.
Result: You should have created a closed, flat disk with 8 arms pointing up and 8 arms pointing down, with 8 triangular areas that separate these arms.
Phase 3 - Starting to create the first Rounded Side with 4 units
Explanation: If we think of the disk as the equator of the earth, we are now going to form one of the hemispheres. To make the rounded, more 3D shape of the first half of the sphere, we will be creating triangular cavities. So, where our disk was flat, we are now going to use the same technique as before, but connecting our flaps at angles, in order to form the spaces we need.
Important: The exact movements in the instructions below are just a suggestion. Once you know the connection method, feel free to do the assembly with the disk flat on the table or you may want to hold the model in the air. It works quite well to pick up the disk and hold it so the side you are working on is to the right. This would be the way you might hold a cymbal in your hands when playing in an orchestra.
Step 8: Place your disk flat and make sure you have 8 triangular moveable flaps or arms that are arranged in a circle. Note that between each moveable flap, there is a flat, triangular area on your disk.
Step 9:
9.1 Receiving arms: Choose any two of the moveable arms that are adjacent to each other. We will be connecting two arms of a new unit to them. Lift these arms up at 90 degrees from the table and then tilt them towards each other so their outer sides touch. Turn the disk so the two "receiving" arms you have chosen are on the left. The one nearest you will be the front arm and the one furthest away will be the back arm.
9.2 Giving arms: Hold your new unit 9 with its closed point nearest you. Make sure two of its arms are on the left and two on the right. Open the two arms on the left at around 45 degrees.
9.3 Placement: Place the two "giving" arms so they rest against the two "receiving" arms. Make sure your unit 9 has its closed point towards the center of the disk. You will notice that the points of the flaps are sticking out past the straight edges of the units.
Step 10: Once the units are placed, it is time to do the same tucking moves we did when we formed our flat ring.
10.1 Focus on the two units that are touching nearest you. Fold the point of the one on the left away from you and the point of the one on the right towards you, tucking them into each other's pockets.
10.2 Now focus on the two units that are touching furthest away from you. Repeat the same step so these two units are also joined securely.
Result: Unit 9 has been joined to your flat ring with two of its arms. Your first triangular space or cavity has been created.
Step 11: Rotate your disk to the right or clockwise so the next pair of "receiving" arms are on the left side.
Step 12: Take a new unit 10 and attach two of its arms to those you have just isolated, following the same process as for Steps 9 and 10 above.
Step 13: Continue by joining units 11 and 12 to the four remaining arms that are sticking out from the disk.
Result: Four new units have been added to the flat disk, each forming a triangular space.
Phase 4 - Starting to create the second Rounded Side with 4 units
Step 14: Carefully flip the entire model over to reveal the remaining 8 arms on the other side.
Step 15: Using units 13, 14, 15 and 16, form the same pattern on this side of the flat ring. Once the units are all attached, you will have eight loose arms left on each side of the flat disk.
Phase 5 - Closing the Remaining Arms
Step 16: Rotate the assembly so that one of the clusters made up of the four pairs of arms that are standing straight up, is facing the ceiling. Notice that each pair of arms is separated from its neighbor by a space or cavity. Take one arm from the left and one from the right of adjacent pairs and cross the right arm over the left. Tuck the points that are sticking out into the pockets just next to them as before. You have just formed another cavity.
Step 17: Repeat the procedure with the six arms that are left to form 3 more cavities.
Step 18: Rotate the assembly so the opposite cluster of arms is now facing the ceiling and connect the last 8 arms in a similar way, forming the last four cavities of the sphere.
You will find that the structure will open into its final spherical shape as you complete the last side. Ensure that all small points are folded and tucked in securely. All edges should be pressed neatly together and the creases should be reinforced.
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