Designed by Lindy van der Merwe - 2026
This Text-Only Tutorial copyright 2026 by Lindy van der Merwe
Paper to be used: 10 squares; any size should work.
Fairly thin or speciality origami paper is recommended for this model.
Two colors in an alternating pattern should make an attractive decoration.
Steps: 21
Folding level: Beginner
Description: This modular decoration is composed of 10 cone-shaped units, joined into a circle, with their closed pointy ends touching at the center of the ring. Each unit will link sideways, to the next, with the arms of the right unit placed into and enclosed by the arms of the unit on its left.
The finished model is a 3D ring shape that starts out flat at its center, but that becomes more 3D towards the outer edges of the circle. When completed, the front and back surfaces of the ring will form ten "spokes" that will be made up of sharp edges formed all around the circle in a zigzag pattern.
The modules are formed by adding 4 folds to the traditional Waterbomb Base, creating a cone shape, allowing us to join units by tucking points into edges of other units.
The model is well-suited to beginners who want to venture into modular origami.
This tutorial is divided into the following parts:
Part 1 - The Waterbomb Base
Steps 1 to 8 involves forming the traditional origami Waterbomb or Triangle Base.
You can find instructions for various ways to fold the Waterbomb Base from the following link:
Introduction to Bases used in Origami
Part 2 - Forming the 3D unit
Part 3 - Folding more units.
Part 4 - Assembly.
Part 1 - The Waterbomb Base
See the above link for instructions.
Part 2 - Forming the 3D unit
Step 9
Turn the flat Waterbomb Base unit sideways, so that its closed point is to the left with 2 of its flaps pointing up and 2 down.
Step 10
Grasp the top corner of the triangle, top layer only, and fold it downwards and to the right, so the top edge meets the horizontal center of the unit.
Starting at the left, closed point, make a nice, even crease.
Result: The top edge of the triangle will come down to lie straight along the horizontal center crease to form a new, long, skinny triangle with a point that will extend past the right side of the model.
Step 11
Grasp the bottom corner of the triangle, top layer only, and fold it upwards and to the right, so the bottom edge meets the horizontal center of the model.
Starting at the left, closed point, make a nice, even crease.
Result: The bottom edge of the triangle will come up to lie straight along the horizontal center crease to form a long, skinny triangle with a point that will extend past the right side of the unit.
On this side, we will call it Side A, you will end up with the two newly-formed triangles with their bases touching.
Beneath this will be the original triangle formed by the Waterbomb Base.
Step 12
Turn the shape over from top to bottom and repeat Steps 10 and 11 on the other side (Side B) so that your model will now be symmetrical.
Step 13
Pick up the flat shape from the table and hold it with its closed point towards the ceiling and one of the sides with the two triangles you have created facing you.
Press on the left and right hinge folds formed by these triangles, while, at the same time, pulling them away from the flat surface of the model.
You would like to arrange the flaps on this side of the unit so they form a 3D "circular" or "cone" shape with four panels.
Step 14
Repeat Step 13 on Side B of the modified Waterbomb Base shape.
The finished unit will have two flaps on each side that will have formed into a circular or curved shape. We will call these Circles A and B. If holding the unit with one of the circles facing you, you will also find two closed or indented sides, one on the left and one on the right.
Keep this in mind for the assembly that follows:
Part 3 - Folding more units.
You will need 9 more units.
Make sure all look exactly the same before starting the assembly.
Part 4 - Assembly
Terms
* Circles
- Each side of the finished unit has been folded into a circular shape, made up of 4 long panels. We will call these structures Circle A and Circle B.
The circle of the right unit will fit inside the circle of the left.
* Pointy Ends
Each circle has 2 pointy ends that have been formed on the two "outer" panels of the circle. These pointy ends are positioned next to each other if looking from outside the circle with a slit separating them.
* Edges
If we look inside the circular shape, we will notice the walls of the circle is made up of a double layer. Once one circle is slid into another, the points of the circles will be tucked into the edges of the surrounding circles, locking the units securely together.
* Disc or Ring
In the context of this tutorial, units that are joined together, forming a flat ring or disk.
Explanation
Make sure that all units are turned with their closed point facing you.
Important: Also make sure that the circles of the units are on the left and right, since we will be joining them sideways.
Step 15
Place your first unit on a flat surface with the closed point nearest you. Consider circle A to be on the left and circle B to be on the right.
Step 16
Place unit 2 down to the right of unit 1 in exactly the same orientation.
Step 17
Gently open circle B of unit 1 and then slide circle A of unit 2 inside it.
Let the pointy ends of unit 1 close around the circle of unit 2.
Make sure unit 2 is inserted all the way and that it is completely surrounded by the arms of unit 1.
You will find that the 4 panels of the units slot nicely against each other.
You will also find that there are now 4 pointy ends sticking out beyond the straight edge of the assembly.
Step 18
Tuck the 4 points into the edges formed by the two units as follows:
The pointy ends of unit 1, which is now on the outside of the circle, should be tucked into the edges of unit 2, just next to them.
Similarly, the two pointy ends of unit 2, which is now on the inside of the circle, should be tucked into the edges of unit 1.
Before tucking in the points, make sure the modules are correctly positioned with unit 2 pushed all the way towards the center of the circle and that the 4 panels of the units follow the valley and mountain pattern that will allow them to be locked securely.
You can decide the order in which you would like to join the pointy ends, e.g. first fold over the left and then the right pointy ends on one side, turning the assembly over, and then completing the two points on the other side, or you may skip the flipping over entirely.
Try to decide on a pattern and follow this throughout, especially until you are more familiar with the process of folding and assembly of this modular.
Step 19
Continue adding new units from the right by inserting their circles into the circles of previous units and tucking in all the points carefully.
Step 20
Once you have added 10 units, join unit 10 with unit 1 in exactly the same way as you have been doing.
Result: You should have created a completely closed ring.
Step 21
Inspect your closed ring carefully to make sure that all small points are folded and tucked in securely. All edges should be pressed neatly together and the creases should be reinforced, especially at all the places where the corners of the folded shapes touch.
Making origami accessible through text-based tutorials.
For non-commercial use only.
Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, January 2026
This text copyright 2026 by accessorigami.com and the author.
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