Text-Only Tutorial - Copyright 2025 by Lindy van der Merwe
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Designer/Creator: Jeff Beynon
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British Origami - Gomodular - Day 2
Paper to be used: 7 squares; speciality origami paper or colored paper of a medium thickness is recommended.
Folding level: Easy/Beginner
Steps: 14
Description:
Featured in the "Gomodular" series presented by British Origami in 2023, this ring or wreath is not only unique because it uses seven units, which is quite rare as far as modular designs go, but also because of its simplicity. Both the units and the assembly method is simple and straightforward, with a meditative element that will satisfy those who enjoy this part of modular origami. The ring holds together well with no glue and makes a beautiful decoration or display. The finished ring is a flat, sturdy, seven-sided shape with a fairly large opening at its center. It has an interesting geometric pattern that looks similar on both sides. It will make a nice, flat wreath or it could be used as the base for a sun or dream catcher.
You can use alternating colors if preferred, make your ring from only one color or go to the other extreme and create a multi-colored ring, as long as the squares you choose are all the same size.
Phase 1 - Folding the module
Step 1
Position a square of paper on your work surface so that its edges are at the top and bottom, left and right.
Step 2
Fold the square in half by bringing the bottom edge up to meet the top edge. Crease and leave folded.
You will have a two-layered rectangle. Make sure the closed, folded edge is at the bottom for the next step.
Step 3
We are going to focus on the front layer of the rectangle for this step. We would like to make a diagonal fold that will run from the top left corner to the bottom right corner of the rectangle.
The back layer of the paper should stay flat on the table and will be revealed as you make this fold.
To accomplish this, hold down the rectangle firmly at its top left corner, while bringing down the top right corner, a single layer only, until you can feel a straight diagonal crease that will run from corner to corner across the rectangle.
This fold reminds me a bit of how one would fold down one wing of a plane or a bird.
You will notice that, as you fold down the layer of paper, you will need to lift and then replace your finger at the top left corner to allow for the diagonal fold to form.
Try to make your corners as sharp as possible. The first fold may feel a bit strange, but you will get used to it quite quickly.
With the model flat on the table, you should now have the following three main areas:
1. At the top right, a single=layered triangle, which is the unfolded back of the paper;
2. At the bottom left, a small two-layered triangle that is open on the left and forms a closed edge nearest you;
3. At the center, a large, loose triangular flap that seems to be positioned diagonally on top of your original rectangle.
Step 4
Flip the model over from left to right.
On this side, you will have the rectangle again, with a single-layered triangle sticking out from underneath the edge that is nearest you.
Step 5
Repeat Step 3 on this side, but this time bringing down the top left corner, so that you will end up with a fold that will run from the top right corner to the bottom left corner.
Since you will no longer have the corners of the original rectangle, you can use the already-folded edge, which will now form the back of the model, as a guide.
If you find it easier, lift up the model and fold the second "flap" or "wing" down so it matches the angle of the first as closely as possible.
Result: With the two folded edges still furthest away from you, you will now end up with an interesting five-sided shape that will look a bit like an upside-down mountain with two peaks.
Phase 2 - Folding more modules.
Fold 6 more of these units, making sure that they match each other exactly.
Phase 3 - Assembly
Explanation
Orientation:
Make sure all the units are placed so their folded, long edges are situated horizontally, furthest away from you.
Nearest you the two large loose folded-down flaps, that we will call "wings" for the remainder of this tutorial, should be on the left and the smaller two-layered triangle, that we will call Triangle A, should be on the right.
Triangle A:
The bottom right triangle or corner has only two layers of paper, with one open and one closed side.
Note that for the assembly, this corner should always be on the bottom right side as we join our units.
Join B:
You will notice that Triangle A seems to disappear underneath the "wings" that are forming the left part of the unit.
Starting at the top right corner of Triangle A, follow first its open edge downwards and then its closed edge diagonally upwards, until you meet with the edge of the "wings".
This meeting point, where the "wings" and Triangle A touch, is important for our assembly, so we will refer to it as Join B.
Central Pocket:
Lastly, your entire unit can be opened along its top edge, revealing a kind of large, diagonal pocket, which we will call the central pocket.
When opened, it will have the two-layered "wings", one on the back and one on the front, and you will feel a long, diagonal valley fold sloping from top left to bottom right.
Step 6
Place your first unit down as indicated above.
Step 7
Place a second unit down to the right of unit 1 in exactly the same orientation.
Step 8
To join the units, open unit 1 by lifting the "wing" nearest you slightly to reveal the central, diagonal pocket. Take unit 2 and
slide its left point, including both "wings", into unit 1, so it disappears inside the central pocket, stopping when you reach Join B of unit 2.
Result: The two units will now be joined loosely at an angle, causing two small points to protrude from the assembly, at the edge furthest away from you.
Actually, there will be 3 small points: on the right there will be two points across from each other and then there will be a single point on the left.
Step 9
Make sure unit 2 is resting snugly against unit 1. The two small points poking out should be about the same size and unit 2 should no longer be able to move to the left. Make sure you do not slide unit 2 inside unit 1 past Join B, otherwise the angles of the model will not end up being correct.
Step 10
Now, focus on the two small right points at the top of the assembly, tucking them towards each other and downwards so they disappear into the pocket just beneath them. This fold will lock your first two units together.
Step 11
You can now either tuck in the remaining left small point at the top of the assembly, or leave it to come back to once you have joined all seven units. These points are not locks, as such, so you can either fold them over to the back or front. It is more important that you hide them completely when tucking them inside the model. If they poke out from in between the layers of the paper, you won't have a neat, clean outer edge to your ring.
Step 12
Repeat Steps 8 to 11 with more modules, rotating the assembly to the left and joining new units from the right.
You will notice a circle starting to form.
Step 13
Join unit 1 into unit 7 in the same way as you have been doing. The ring will be closed securely now.
Step 14
If you have not folded the small points at the outer edge of the ring to the inside yet, do so now, tucking them inside so no paper is showing around the finished edge.
Your Heptad Ring is finished.
Making origami accessible through text-based tutorials.
For non-commercial use only.
Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, November 2025
This text copyright 2025 by accessorigami.com
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